• 목록
• 답변
• 글쓰기
• 게시판 리스트 옵션
  • 수정
  • 삭제

Two tools -- one for each function -- are used simultaneously when picking a lock. And this is simply a symptom of the fact that we are confusing the description of the world on the one hand with the world itself on the other. No, it is due to the fact that the meditator meditates and has liberated himself from his past, which was an idea in his head. Right: Side view, with part of the shell and plug cut away to expose the six pin stacks. Right: With all of the cuts at the shear line, the plug can rotate freely within the shell. Because there are two independent shear lines, there is no way to control, or even tell, at which shear line a given pin stack sets. A key that is bitted to the wrong depth in even one pin position will not operate the lock. Once you get the knack of that, you can do it even while you’re thinking. Much of this is simply a matter of individual preference, but certain choices here can also have an impact on performance. Picking depends on weaknesses in the implementation of locks -- small manufacturing imperfections -- rather than fundamental, abstract design flaws that would be present no matter how carefully made the locks might be.

Many manufacturers outfit their picks with elaborate and supposedly "ergonomic" handles, but these often hinder performance as much as they might enhance it. It's much easier to learn each skill in isolation, using locks specifically set up for the purpose. Many experienced locksmiths and expert lock pickers prefer "home made" tools to the commercial selections, especially for picking unusual and high security locks. An excellent (and currently available) reference is Marc W. Tobias' Locks, Safes and Security. In the lab there is a collection of "training locks," mounted on boards, for practice. Dedicated practice helps refine skills, build consistency, and improve overall gameplay. Picks probe and lift the individual pin tumblers through the keyway, while torque tools control the degree and force of plug rotation. The traditional torque tool is made from stiff, flat spring steel, bent at a 90 degree angle to provide a small blade that fits in the keyway and a long handle to which torque is applied. In particular, you should feel when you set a pin as much in the torque tool as you do in the pick. In the locked state the plug is prevented from rotating by a set of movable pin stacks, typically under spring pressure, that protrude from holes in the top of the opening in the shell into corresponding holes drilled into the top of the plug.

It won't turn, of course, because the cut of the (single) pin stack is still below the shear line and its top pin is preventing the plug from rotating. See Figure 2. The plug will be blocked from rotating if any pin stack is lifted either not far enough (with the cut still in the plug below the shear line) or too far (with the cut pushed above the shear line and into the shell); to rotate, what is billiards all pin stacks must have a cut at the shear line. The plug/shell border is called the shear line. Each lever has a cutout, called a gate, through which part of the locking bolt, called the fence or the stump, must travel. The basic design consists of a rotatable cylinder tube, called the plug, linked to the underlying locking mechanism. Other classes of attack, not discussed here but at least as worthy of study and scrutiny, include lock decoding, which is concerned with producing a working key based only on access to the external interface of the lock, lock bypass, which aims to unlatch the underlying locking mechanism without operating the lock at all, and forced entry, which, as the term suggests, involves the destructive application of force to the lock or its surroundings.

That means being able to reliably pick the lock, both clockwise and counterclockwise, and being confident that you know how you opened it. You can’t live on the right side of the tracks without there being a wrong side of the tracks. There are exceptions, however. Most of the esoteric pick designs in the huge, overpriced sets you see on the web and from locksmith suppliers are useless, and eventually end up being discarded in favor of the basic hooks. For those unfortunate neo-anti-Luddites who refuse to acknowledge the value of anything not available on the Web, I suggest, at a minimum, reading the MIT Guide to Lockpicking, which, while not perfect, has the virtue of being free (and readily available online). Understanding the theory of lock picking is only a small part of being able to successfully pick locks. Picking locks requires skill, practice, and the use of rather unusual (and not widely available) tools. See Figure 1. (In practice, the cuts are produced by stacking pin segments of particular lengths, not by actually cutting the pins; hence the term "pin stack.") With no key in the lock, all the pin stack cuts rest within the plug.